#article
#Painting
#Specification-Note
#Conservation
I recently went to my local pub after it had been closed for an upgrade. An internal wall was removed to allow light into the interior, walls were freshened up, furniture replaced and the external wall painted. We even have a new Sign ouside. The car park was relined, and the garden sproosed up.
On on my first visit, I was diapointed, the Painters had indeed brightened things up, they had painted the windows, and cills and it looks great, but they had painted without thinking, the windows were never opened, in fact I doubt if they could be opened, because the previous painters had just painted them closed, painted the locks, the hingees the putty, everthing. and the recent painters had just done the same.
Is this the way to treat a classic pub, which I believe its grade 2 listed, yet no effort has been put in to clean down the old paint, revitalise the timber allow the locks and hinges to work, and the windows to open as they should.
I understand the need to get it looking good and reopened, time is money, yet I felt for the building, because they just did not care.
If I had a voice, I would have specified the windows be removed and taken to a bench to have all the ironmungery removed. then I would ask for the existing paint to be removed, I would prefer to see a hot ait gun used rather than chemical, but some times needs must, I have, in the past given either option, and seen hot air as the most liked. Chemical is iffy and some times needs several applications, but it so often engrained paint that the hot are gun, just can’t deal with where a good quality chemical removal agent is needed. But follow the manufacturers health and safety advise. Hot air from a gun is easily controlled, either way, care should be taken for both the timber, and yourself for fumes and dust.
Once the frame has been scrapped clean of any old paint, let it stand and breath, lightly sand and wipe with a damp cloth, I would refrain from usung turps or any other solvent, a damp cloth will remove dust and muck left behind after sanding.
A note on sanding, use a medium grit to take back any left over paint, and then use a fine grit to finish, timber that has a fine molding needs care to bring back the profile, this takes time and should not be rushed, a good quality bummer, or timber putty, may be applied to reinstate the profile.
Now is the time to inspect the detail, the hinge rebates and screw holes, do they need repairing, same for the locks, and and latch handles. Also does the window or door and or frame need a drip, to stop capilary action, a rabbit plane run on the underside of a cill to produce a fine shallow grove will help.
Any frame should be cleaned and repaired, I can almost cry when I see sealant squeezed against the frame and any brickwork, its a sin, plain and simple, have it carefully removed and if nessasary add a fine architrave applied with a gap between frame and wall, to allow a backer rod and sealant applied correctly, to the gap.
Paint should be applied as a primer first, to seal the surface, a painter once told me several thin layers are so much better than one thick coat, each coat very lightly sanded to prepair for the next coat. Never throw away old used sandpaper, for this very job!.
Applying the undercoat, is done to prepare the surface for the final coat, and often paired with the final colour, the undercoat helps the painter get a good even surface, ready for the final coat
The choice between gloss paint and satin paint will depend on your personal preferences and the specifics of your project. If you’re looking for a paint that is durable and easy to clean, gloss paint may be the right choice. If you’re looking for a paint that can help hide imperfections and create a soft and muted look in your project, satin paint may be the better option. for me gloss every time, but, the choice is yours, and please consult the Conservation Officer if dealing with a protected building.
If putty has been used, to seal the glass, I would often ask for it to be removed, and the glass removed, you may find small pins, to fix the glass, carefully remove, for small pains, lay the glass out so they can be laid back into the same frame. Replacing old glass, thats cracked is a real pain, there are restorers who collect old glass, if possible use old, the reflective qualities of old and new glass are to obvious.
Specify the glass be replaced and pinned before putty is applied, I love watching glassiers use a putty knife, its an art to get that straight line. An Architect I worked with for many years on refurbishments, often asked to the glass to be bedded in a thin layer of putty, between glass and frame, this stop the rattle. I am not a great fan of painting over good quality putty, I prefer to let it skin over before making any desission, at least 5 weeks depending on the season.
The Removal of all ironmungery, earlier should, by now, have been inspected, and cleaned, this is the only time I would want to use a chemical bath, it is the only method, to be used. Has the fitting worn badley, does it need replacing, now is a good time to check, same goes for stays, and latch or locks, for older work, can you get the same as, this is were problems often arrise, I would stand your ground and insist, on “like for like”, this means a hunt in any reclamation yards, or search for a manufacturer still making the same fitting.
Hinges are often badley painted and gummed up, I prefer to just specify new Brass hinges be installed, but be carefull, look for as near a fit as possible. And I know this might seem strange, but an old fashioned slot brass screw is part of the age of the building, another point made by my wood work master Mr Barlely, aline all the screw heads. Now I have told you this, you will be walking round old historic houses looking at hinges, join the club.
It might have taken time, and cost, but the building would look good and last so much longer before the next upgrade, at least for me and I hope you, but for many perhaps this will educate them a little.
This article will be expanded and added to Mitchells Advanced in my refurb section.
but for my first visit the meal was good, the beer fine, and my company talkative, oh an my dog welcome by the excellent staff, but I just felt let down. But we will return.
An Architect I once worked with would have been mortified, to him the expence and time to do it right, the first time, was cheaper that doing it three times, to save time and misguided proffit. RIP Jim.
Just saying !
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